Good to hear. When Tek2000 first appeared, things were packed poorly and sometimes damaged in shipping. I think I read that the mounts have been improved as well.Hi Al;
It took four days and I got an email from Paypal with the tracking numbers. And it takes awhile to make it through customs in Canada which was a little irritating. The shipping policy allows for up to two weeks and it took just about the full two weeks to get my stuff. The dish comes in two boxes with two separate tracking numbers with one box being the mesh petals and the other box being the mount. Very well packed. Another long skinny box had the actuator and another box yet had the receiver, V-box, and inclinometer as I got the whole 'kit' and not just the dish. I'm sure you'll hear something shortly.
Had a neighbor once who purchased a 1 piece stainless steel 10 foot dish. Why he didn't buy from me I don't know because I only lived a half mile away, but the guy he got the system from stood the reflector up against the eve of the house and bolted it to the mount. It was egg shaped enough I could see it when I drove by. After about a month of searching for a signal, he called me.Having assembled hundreds of C-band panel dishes, I would not recommend installing the panels on a mount sitting on top of a pole. This will make alignment difficult and shaping the parabola reflector nearly impossible.
Instead, assemble on a flat surface. Place a bucket the same height as the parabola depth and make it the center of the petal. The bucket will support the panels as they are placed face down and loosely bolted together. This method will help create the parabola shape that will have final adjusted once bolted to the mount and string tested.
When the panels are joined, have a few friends flip the reflector onto its back, align and bolt on top of the upward facing assembled polar mount. I would use several log cabin style stacked 4x4 posts on top of a few pallets to cradle the mount and raise it off the ground. Once the reflector is loosely bolted to the mount, stretch 4 or more strings across the face of the dish at opposing angles. Make sure the strings lightly touch in the center. If the strings to not lightly touch, adjust the individual panels until all strings cross and barely touch, then tighten the panel and mounting bolts to spec. Failure to adjust the panels to optimize the parabola shape during the assembly will create a warped surface that will not accurately focus the satellite signals into the feedhorn opening.
I always used 3 1/2 OD schedule 40 steel gas line. It's readily available around here since we are in the oil & gas zone. Most of the time the well companies will give you used gas line they have laying around. On top of a hill, I used drill sections with 1/2 inch walls. It weighs a ton, but it won't bend in the wind. I even used it on hills for solid dishes and never had one bend.Its not the weight of the dish (for the most part) that calls for a good pipe to mount on but the wind load of the dish when tge wind is blowing ... and tge concrete foot too. If the wind is normally low and you dont mind occasional signal loss then go with a small/light pipe .... it always depends on location.
Sent from my SM-G930V using the SatelliteGuys app!
May want to call them and get a tracking number.
I machined this on my lathe and used a laser I bought off EBay and made a feed alignment tool. It has two straight pins 4 inches long sticking out exactly opposite of each other on the outer lip to line up the polarity. Just stick that baby in the throat of the feed, turn on the laser, set the polarity and use the laser to set the feed in the center of the dish. The two pins must be lined up with the horizontal dipole inside the LNB to set the polarity, but that's easy enough to do.
More success.....in a manner of speaking. I'm up and running but have a whole heck of a lot of fine tuning to do. The dish kit had a paper in it that said that these dishes come with two different lengths of LNB rods depending upon the design and manufacturer and they instruct you to measure the LNB rods. With the length of my rods they have to attach at 15" from the rim I believe. On the backside of the dish the holes are where they are supposed to be and you use a quarter inch drill to bust through the mesh. Easy enough. They said that the focal length was 48 inches plus a half inch for the center for a total of 48.5 inches. The rods come from the factory with straight ends. You bolt on the dish end and then when you elevate the rod the rod bends at the right spot on the dish end and then you have to bend the rods at the top to fit the scalar.
The scalar set up at exactly 48" and then I figured the other half inch I would get with moving the LNB in it's holder. I used the Titanium LNB and set the focal depth to .40 which should of been right for this dish. The signal levels were pretty low. The scalar seems centered o.k. and the measurements from the rim to the scalar were all within a quarter to half inch of each other so it can probably be centered a might better but not too bad to start off with. I moved the actuator until I got a signal peak and figured I was on a satellite but unable to lock a transponder. So I figured at least I would peak the signal strength and basically had to move the LNB as far forward in the holder as it would go to get the levels up. After locking it down and scanning with a receiver I ended up on 91W instead of 87W but decided to peak on 91W since I was there. Long and the short of it is the dish is only picking up the strongest transponders. I think the LNB depth is off and the LNB acts like it wants to get closer yet. Not yet sure how I'm going to fix that whether I try bending all four rods in pulling the LNB closer or drilling new holes closer to the rim and pulling it closer that way. I want to get the LNB closer to get max signal strength before I monkey around with fine tuning. Right now I'm only getting a handful of satellites but satisfied at this point considering that this morning I couldn't get the dish to fit in the mount and it was warped. This is enough for today. Looking forward to tweaking it and getting all the kinks worked out.
Yeah, but if you read the whole thread I had to drill new holes for the LNB rods just like others have had to do. It ended up at .40 after I relocated the rods.So Arion was your FD .40 at the end when you where done with setting up? I have the same dish and would like to know what I need to set mine at. Thanks
That's why I always liked a button hook feed better than a tri or quad leg feed. I always ordered the dishes we used with a button hook when available. It was really nice when the feed tube was long enough to stick out the back of the dish. I could put my helper behind the dish setting the focal length while I watched the meter out front. You could peak the polarity easier that way also.Yeah, but if you read the whole thread I had to drill new holes for the LNB rods just like others have had to do. It ended up at .40 after I relocated the rods.
Fine tuning this thing has been a bit of a struggle as I haven't done this before but I'm starting to get it dialed in. There are similarities between the big dishes and the small ones of course but I have to admit that I'm surprised of how sensitive the dish is to very small movements. I had kind of expected C-band to be a bit less sensitive than KU but that hasn't been my experience. A couple of things I learned is when adjusting for due south on the satellites towards the end of the arc is to have just a bit of friction on the center bolts but then instead of moving the dish at the mount go to the end of the dish and gently apply pressure while looking at the satellite meter. Adjusting from the mount isn't precise enough. I pretty much left my elevation to what the charts have indicated but I'm using more declination than what I should even with the mounting pole being plumb, ect. Another thing is that after your satisfied with your due south position and before you make adjustments to write down what your current elevation and declination so you have those settings in cause you walk yourself out of alignment with other parts of the arc. That way you can return to what you had if you fudge things up.
Another problem I had is that I didn't get some signal levels as high as I had expected after peaking the LNB position as well as skew and azimuth. I know that the dish had nothing more than a mild warp if that and the LNB after measuring from the rim was within a quarter inch of each measurement. I looked a bit closer at the scalar and it was hard to tell if it was perpendicular to the dish face. What I did was to get an angle measurement off of the back plate as I couldn't reach the front center plate. Once I had that angle I disconnected the lower LNB rod and held the inclination meter up to the bottom of the scalar and there was about a 3 degree difference between the measurement. I used that angle to bend the scalar in the right direction and then bent the LNB rod at the top so it would line up with the new tilt of the scalar and tightened it back down. Picked up an instant 10% to 15% in quality on transponders. Still fine tuning and need to do some more but I'm getting close at this point.