Upcoming Cband project - Looking for a good parts supplier

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Here's a pic of the cleaned up panels - It turns out they're not black or green - They're gray!

IMG_20150927_54951.jpg
 
Would agree with waylew. Either a bushing or bearing that are siezed/rusted. Once you get the bolts out, you will know what it is. If just a brass bushing, then you may be able to salvage them, if bearings may have to find someone with a press to press new ones in. Brass bushing can be machined fairly quickly and thus shouldn't cost to much to get made.

Keep us posted.

edited for clarity.
 
Ya you guys are right - Both adjustment rods are rusted tight and it has washers between the pieces. I need to dunk all of these parts and see if they'll move. Not sure what metal the washers are. I'm going to get the main parts media blasted and painted and I'll rebuild it.
 
Thanks for posting the pics phlatwound - great to know its not missing parts.
It's hard to be sure that certain parts are supposed to move, but I have the Declination adjustment rod in a bath of acetone and transmission fluid. In a day or two I'll see if it frees up.
 
Things have worked out great so far. I got the azel mount rebuilt and painted, some new replacement hardware.
I was wondering - in terms of the pole bolts - is there is any advantage to the square headed bolts the dish came with, versus regular 6 sided bolts?
 
is there is any advantage to the square headed bolts the dish came with, versus regular 6 sided bolts?
Not that I am aware of, unless it is part of that particular dish design.
 
I have the dish assembled but not mounted. Anyone know the focal distance for the Unimesh 7.5? I'm measuring about 37 1/4 inches from the center plate to the scalar ring. It isn't quite equidistant, so I have some adjusting to do but would like to know if anyone already knows the focal distance for this model.
Thanks
 
Thanks for the link phlatwound.
I dealt with a few bends in the support arms and the distance to the scalar worked out to about 36" from all sides, which sounds right.
I rolled the dish upright, aimed it at my true south (125 deg) and locked the available transponders on my super buddy a2.
IT'SSSS ALIIIIIIIIVE!!!!!
 
I got the dish on the pole and though I am still eagerly awaiting the post office delivery of my actuator and prime focus Ku holder - it works! I used a threaded rod to hold the dish in place until the actuator arrives. I have it aimed at 105w for NASA - Yay!IMG_20151014_38670.jpg IMG_20151014_16544.jpg
 
My dish is motorized now - the Venture 18 came in today. I hooked it up and things are working really great. The Titanium ASC-1 is awesome! So easy to control with the A3 and with the remote that the ASC-1 comes with - really intuitive. I know I have some adjustments to do, but I'm getting the arc from around 95w-131w. Anyway that's the fun part. I just need to get it connected so it can rain for a few days.

The only thing is that the actuator arrived with a chunk out of it. IMG_20151015_43141.jpg I pretty much just figured I'd seal it up and take a chance - so I did. There was no damage to the box and the missing piece was not in the box at all. There was a very small fragment that was inside when I took the cover off to wire it up. It works fine, so I'll see if I can just get a new cover piece.

I've got a lot to do still, but things are great so far and I still have to do the Ku part - once I get the arc peaked after the next rain.
. Thanks you guys for your help on this project!
Cheers
 
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My arc was an easy adjustment, so now I'm solid from 83-139
The problem still exists with the A3 where it crashes on blind scans on 131-139w
I've cleared the tp list and rescanned but it craps out and complains about losing satellite control.
I've managed to add the Alaska mux, but that's about all.

If the rain holds off I want to swap the center to Ku from C.
Does anyone have a good example off a cband sidecar home made bracket for prime focus?
Also, there is no orientation marking on the Inverto Black Pro - My guess is that the unit is to be mounted vertically for the '0' mark- anyone know for sure?

Thanks
 
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