Bsc621

[gabshere]

ok i swapped out the co rotor to try the BSC621
placed it on and tuned in c-band got it ..... tried ku nothing
ok worked with ku for about 1 hour and got it tuned in and it was receiving a little better than the co rotor that was on and i tried c-band .... nothing
ran out of time to play with it so maybe i will try again in a day or so . now let me ask is there a special knack to getting both c & ku at the same time or am i just hitting one or the other ..... i actually thought if i tuned ku that c-band would be there. now i did move the bracket holders a bit and had to re align them to fit the new LNBF. i need to recheck the FD but i thought it would be there since i had a signal.

let me know your comments , and helpful tips
thanks

 

[dem0nlord]

C and Ku are always about 3 clicks apart for me, never the same.

 

[gabshere]

Thanks Dem0nlord
I had the co-rotor tuned to where it got both c & ku from the same bird, It was off a bit when i started got g10 cband and 121 for ku....but i finally got it on g10 both c & ku. It did take a bit of tuning but i finally found the right spot. i think it was mostly from my inexperince from tuning a corotor. before this one only had a c band lnbf. I will try it some more tuning on monday. will also try to do some reading.

Hey Fred the BSC621 might be everybit as good as that co rotor , so it will be an option for you in the future if you ever need it.

 

[Anole]

I think the same problem has been mentioned since these LNBs and their cousins came out.
Last year or whenever the big rush to try 4 foot C-band was in fashion, this same complaint kept cropping up.
I've never quite understood it.
If C-band is less aim-sensitive than Ku-band, then you peak the Ku, and the C should follow, exactly as was described above.
But it doesn't work.
Can any of you RF engineers shed some light on this situation?

I'll try to remember to ask a retired NBC RF man, but since he doesn't have one, he might not have a clue.
...hrmmmm... maybe I should send him one as a "gift"...

Oh, maybe when we -finally- get a review of the GeoSatPro C/Ku LNB, the answer may be different!
-[hint]-

 

[voomvoom]

I haven't been able to get both the C and ku together on my BSC621, but I'm playing on a 1.2m dish. I would think a larger (C-band) dish would work better for this lnbf.

Al

 

[gabshere]

well i have a theory but it will be a day or two before i can test it .
i tuned c-band first and got it - no ku
then i tuned ku and - no c-band, but i did notice that i had about a 1 1/2 to 2 inch window (could move the feedhorn in or out of the scaler) without loosing ku but i didn't think about c band at the time. so i think since i have already found ku that i should search that 1 1/2 inch to 2 inch window to gain c-band.
plus i'm going to do some reading here

 

[linuxman]

Hey Fred the BSC621 might be everybit as good as that co rotor , so it will be an option for you in the future if you ever need it.

Hey George, I'll know as soon as you get it tuned in.

 

[bill190]

First verify the C LNB is working. I use a signal meter and move the dish back and forth. The signal gets higher and lower as it passes by satellites.

BTW for initial set-up, I have a wire only connected to the C-band LNB. Be careful when screwing in the coax connector that the connector on the LNB does not turn.

Then use a current active c-band frequency from lyngsat.com and move the dish back and forth. The signal level on your receiver should go up/down as you move the dish past the satellite.

Also be sure you are selecting Diseqc 1 or LNB 1 on your receiver to get C band. The C band LNB is also a diseqc switch. (Diseqc 2 or LNB 2 is Ku if you have the jumper wire connected.)

If you are moving the dish back and forth and the signal meter is not showing higher/lower readings, then something wrong.

(And then for idiots for like me, bu sure you are connecting the coax to the C-band LNB and not to the Ku as I did! )

 

[Corrado]

I am currently running one. I use 2 cables and not the built in switch. I find the holder is a loose fit and it was necessary to fabricate a thin shim made from aluminum. This allows it sit perfectly aligned. On my Unimesh 10' dish the front protrudes exactly 1" through the holder and the index marker on the LNB is straight down. It will have acceptable quality between the 6-7 o'clock positions on my setup for KU.