Help with my poor Bud

[Crocodile Locke]

Before I got anymore involved with trying to setup my Bud I wanted to ask what everyone here thinks I should do. I had it laying in the woods for several years and the LNB was uncovered (my bad) and I'm not sure if that would render it toast or not. I've attached several pictures of my LNB and dish (10' Winegard) since I wasn't sure if it's too old of an LNB to get the C band digital programming on Galaxy 16? Also, the dish itself has suffered a couple holes from branches and some of the mesh has bulged out a little between a couple sections, and I wasn't sure how much of an effect this would have on signal reception. Oh, and the actuator was still attached and is fairly rusty.

With all of this said I'm inclined to buy a new smaller setup, since I could find a good location for a smaller dish (say 6 ft) a lot easier than the 10 ft one and since I'm guessing I'm going to need to buy components to get the 10 ft system going, I'd rather use that money (plus some more) to get a completely new system.

In case Iceberg is reading this: I saw you have a Fortec 6 foot dish with GeoSatPro dual C-Band LNB aimed at 99W. I was thinking of getting the same (or similar) setup for the same purpose. Does it work well for you?

My current setup is a Coolsat 7000, Fortec 90cm dish, Invacom QPH-031 and SG2100 motor.

Oh, I also attached a picture of my new found method of transporting my Bud. My Honda Big Red now gets 500 channels!

 

[phlatwound]

Unless you just don't want a 10 footer I would set up what you have there. I see nothing in your pics that would keep me from trying it out.

My main BUD (10' Perfect 10) is in a LOT rougher shape than yours appears to be, and it works great.

You might try testing your actuator with a car battery, or battery charger, to see if it still works. Also pull some strings on the dish and make sure it's not warped.

 

[bubba108]

Hook that bad boy up and point it at something. The only problem I had with an LNB like that was that the motor that changed the polarization was frozen and I had to take it apart and WD40 it.
I propped my last BUD that was that large against two pine trees. Worked great but changing sats was a different matter.

Are you going to try for the Island networks on Galaxy 16? That's the satellite with the networks on it.

THIS TV
CW Channel
NBC
ABC SD and HD
FOX

Those GDMX feeds on the vertical side are great if you have a box that does 4:2:2.

 

[Crocodile Locke]

Unless you just don't want a 10 footer I would set up what you have there. I see nothing in your pics that would keep me from trying it out.

My main BUD (10' Perfect 10) is in a LOT rougher shape than yours appears to be, and it works great.

You might try testing your actuator with a car battery, or battery charger, to see if it still works. Also pull some strings on the dish and make sure it's not warped.

I'm just not sure where I can put the monster, but I'm glad to hear the condition shouldn't be an issue. I'll have to check and see if it's warped tomorrow. I'm inclined to think it isn't or if it is, it isn't too much so. I hadn't thought about testing the actuator that way. Thanks for the reply. :up

Hook that bad boy up and point it at something. The only problem I had with an LNB like that was that the motor that changed the polarization was frozen and I had to take it apart and WD40 it.
I propped my last BUD that was that large against two pine trees. Worked great but changing sats was a different matter.

Are you going to try for the Island networks on Galaxy 16? That's the satellite with the networks on it.

THIS TV
CW Channel
NBC
ABC SD and HD
FOX

Those GDMX feeds on the vertical side are great if you have a box that does 4:2:2.

I'm beginning to think I should try it out . Yup, you guessed it. After losing KTWO I decided I need to have at least ABC. I've got a GI Innovation 550i , would that do what I need it to in conjunction with my Coolsat 7000?
I was also thinking about getting an HD receiver.

 

[turbosat]

I have two of those GI receivers, a 650i, anda 550i, both will work just fine for moving your bud, and changing polarity of your analog & digital channels. Might even find some analog video you like, esp onthe weekends. String test the dish as suggested to be sure it hasn't warped. A few minor imperfections in the mesh in a dish that size won't make a big loss of signal.
I'd take the lnbs and set them up so the connectors are down, for a day or two and see if any rainwater drips out! Let them stay in a warm dry place for a day or two before trying them out-they might be ok but I wouldn't bet on it, if they've been open to the moisture/rain for long. (on the other hand-I saw a ku lnb in a junkyard a couple of years back, bought it for a dollar, lol and dried it out like I mentioned, and it worked great!)

 

[Crocodile Locke]

I have two of those GI receivers, a 650i, anda 550i, both will work just fine for moving your bud, and changing polarity of your analog & digital channels. Might even find some analog video you like, esp onthe weekends. String test the dish as suggested to be sure it hasn't warped. A few minor imperfections in the mesh in a dish that size won't make a big loss of signal.
I'd take the lnbs and set them up so the connectors are down, for a day or two and see if any rainwater drips out! Let them stay in a warm dry place for a day or two before trying them out-they might be ok but I wouldn't bet on it, if they've been open to the moisture/rain for long. (on the other hand-I saw a ku lnb in a junkyard a couple of years back, bought it for a dollar, lol and dried it out like I mentioned, and it worked great!)

We're supposed to get rain here for the next couple of days, so maybe I could take them off the dish and inside to dry out? If they turn out to be bad, what would you recommend as a replacement? Also, allow me to show my ignorance by asking how I would hook the 550i up with the Coolsat? Or would I be better off running the 550i independently?

 

[bubba108]

If your just after the Island networks you won't need to change the polarity, just leave it on horizontal. That way you won't need to run a cable for changing the vert and horizontal. And you won't need to keep the GI 550i hooked up, just the Coolsat. BUT if you want the analog feeds on G-16 you will need the 550i and the three wire cable. And you will need to change polarity if you want the GDMX 4:2:2 feeds on vertical.

So simple (Island networks) is just the Coolsat and the dish on horizontal or you can go nuts with it like I did, Island networks, GDMX feeds and analog feeds.
I would just work on getting the networks first, then take it from there.

 

[Crocodile Locke]

If your just after the Island networks you won't need to change the polarity, just leave it on horizontal. That way you won't need to run a cable for changing the vert and horizontal. And you won't need to keep the GI 550i hooked up, just the Coolsat. BUT if you want the analog feeds on G-16 you will need the 550i and the three wire cable. And you will need to change polarity if you want the GDMX 4:2:2 feeds on vertical.

So simple (Island networks) is just the Coolsat and the dish on horizontal or you can go nuts with it like I did, Island networks, GDMX feeds and analog feeds.
I would just work on getting the networks first, then take it from there.

Simple was what I was thinking too, but eventually I'd probably go for everything.
For now I'd just like some networks before the snow flies.

I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to switches , so what would I need to do to have my 90cm Fortec and the Bud both hooked up to the Coolsat?
What are the GDMX feeds by the way?

Thanks again for all the help and motivation you've given me the last couple days. :up

 

[Mr Tony]

very nice dish. I had one of those old LNB's on my 6 footer and it worked fine.

Bubba pretty much nailed it. G16 has the networks (big 4 + cw), My Network and World Harvest all on horizontal. On vertical is the 4:2:2 feeds. There is some analog on there too
16 (V) is shepherds chapel
18 (V) & 19 (H) have syndicated feeds on during the day
Sometimes 17, 23, 8 & 10 do too

honestly I would hook up the analog receiver and get both polarities or swap out the LNB for one that is voltage switched by the receiver (the newer ones)

 

[Mr Tony]

What are the GDMX feeds by the way?

thats the name of the channel as its logged. There are 5 of them and they show the syndicated shows during the day. These are usually in advance so the networks can grab the shows and "put them in the can" to be shown on that day they specify

some syndicated stuff is Springer, Steve Wilkos, Maury, Ellen, Regis & Kelly, Tyra, Judge Pirro, TMZ, Extra, Access Hollywood etc.

Some are advanced for that day. I like seeing TMZ at 7 or 8:00 instead of 10:35 as it is locally. Some shows like Springer, Maury & Steve are about 4-5 days ahead so the episode of Maury that was shown this past Friday will be shown on regular TV Thursday coming up

 

[Inno]

In the one pic it looks like the ultimate 80's fun pack...........a 10' BUD and a Honda 3 wheeler!:up:up

 

[Mr Tony]

I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to switches , so what would I need to do to have my 90cm Fortec and the Bud both hooked up to the Coolsat?

motorized KU?

If so all you need is a diseqc switch. Is the C-Band going to be by the motorized KU?

 

[bubba108]

Simple was what I was thinking too, but eventually I'd probably go for everything.
For now I'd just like some networks before the snow flies.

I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to switches , so what would I need to do to have my 90cm Fortec and the Bud both hooked up to the Coolsat?
What are the GDMX feeds by the way?

Thanks again for all the help and motivation you've given me the last couple days. :up

Simple is a good way to start.

A 22K switch or diseqc should work. I run my motorized KU dish into a Traxis 3500 and the mini-bud right into a Quality TV box and switch inputs on my TV. The Quality TV box would not work well as a main box but great with HD and 4:2:2.

GDMX 4:2:2 feeds are mostly syndicated TV shows beamed to affiliated stations. Maury Povich, NFC Wired, Jerry Springer etc. A regular FTA box will not get them.

For now I would just concentrate on getting the Islands using your Coolsat.

 

[Crocodile Locke]

very nice dish. I had one of those old LNB's on my 6 footer and it worked fine.

Bubba pretty much nailed it. G16 has the networks (big 4 + cw), My Network and World Harvest all on horizontal. On vertical is the 4:2:2 feeds. There is some analog on there too
16 (V) is shepherds chapel
18 (V) & 19 (H) have syndicated feeds on during the day
Sometimes 17, 23, 8 & 10 do too

honestly I would hook up the analog receiver and get both polarities or swap out the LNB for one that is voltage switched by the receiver (the newer ones)

Thanks Iceberg, Incidentally, I've read so many posts that you've contributed to that helped me back when I was setting up my Ku system in 07' that I have to really say thanks a lot. :up
I " inherited" the Bud and 550i from a friend of mine several years ago. I'm going to try and get it temporarily setup soon so I can test everything.

In the one pic it looks like the ultimate 80's fun pack...........a 10' BUD and a Honda 3 wheeler!:up:up

Yeah, I hadn't thought of that!

motorized KU?

If so all you need is a diseqc switch. Is the C-Band going to be by the motorized KU?

Yeah, I've got an SG2100 motor on my little dish. I had thought about having the C-band by the Ku, but I'm not sure . I have roughly 75ft of cable between the Ku setup and my receiver and I wanted to get things closer if possible. The Ku setup is on a hill next to my house with the cable running through some black pvc water line and it's a pain to run cable through it.

Simple is a good way to start.

A 22K switch or diseqc should work. I run my motorized KU dish into a Traxis 3500 and the mini-bud right into a Quality TV box and switch inputs on my TV. The Quality TV box would not work well as a main box but great with HD and 4:2:2.

GDMX 4:2:2 feeds are mostly syndicated TV shows beamed to affiliated stations. Maury Povich, NFC Wired, Jerry Springer etc. A regular FTA box will not get them.

For now I would just concentrate on getting the Islands using your Coolsat.

I was thinking about switching inputs on my tv like you say. I've got a Harmony 550 remote, which makes setup changes pretty simple. When you say "Quality TV box" I'm not sure what you mean?

 

[Mr Tony]

he forgot the actual name of the reciever
Quali-TV

Its a receiver that (until recently) was the only receiver out there that did do 4:2:2 channels like the GDMX channels. The azbox has since been added to the mix.

The issue with the Quali (the Q) is it was made in the netherlands and is getting old. The sat list is mainly european so it doesn't work great as a motorized setup because you cant edit the satellite. My review on it
http://www.satelliteguys.us/fta-mpeg2-equipment-reviews/133127-quali-tv-1080i.html

 

[Crocodile Locke]

he forgot the actual name of the reciever
Quali-TV

Its a receiver that (until recently) was the only receiver out there that did do 4:2:2 channels like the GDMX channels. The azbox has since been added to the mix.

The issue with the Quali (the Q) is it was made in the netherlands and is getting old. The sat list is mainly european so it doesn't work great as a motorized setup because you cant edit the satellite. My review on it
http://www.satelliteguys.us/fta-mpeg2-equipment-reviews/133127-quali-tv-1080i.html

Funny, I was just looking at stogie5150's review of the azbox. It looks very slick.
I'd love to be able to take advantage of some HD programming. Sounds like if I ever wanted to get one I'd probably be better off with the azbox.

 

[hwm]

My ten foot Winegard mesh looked a lot rougher than yours, with several damaged mesh panels and about 1 inch out of true on the string test.

I warped it back into shape and repaired the panels. It gets 95% or better signal quality on most C-band sats, using a new LNB. It's the large dish in my avatar photo.

The old LNB was ruined by water/corrosion, and the actuator motor was rusty junk. However, the actuator screw jack is fine, and I use it to position the dish along with a simple measuring stick, marked for various sats. I chuck the drive coupler from the old positioner motor in a cordless drill and use it to move the dish.

It stays on G16 @ 99w most of the time for the networks.

Yours is definitely worth fixing, but I would suggest a new LNB.

I also should mention that mine is a later model than the one in the 10 foot Winegard dish owner's manual PDF available on this sight. Mine has a longer focal length/flatter parabola, and the panels simply bolt together on the edges. Yours might also be newer/different than the PDF manual.

Mine measures 22" deep at the center of the dish. The calculated focal length is 40.91 inches, giving a f/D ratio of .34. Quite a bit different than the older model in the PDF manual, which caused me some confusion, until I realized the manual was for a different 10 foot Winegard dish.

 

[Crocodile Locke]

My ten foot Winegard mesh looked a lot rougher than yours, with several damaged mesh panels and about 1 inch out of true on the string test.

I warped it back into shape and repaired the panels. It gets 95% or better signal quality on most C-band sats, using a new LNB. It's the large dish in my avatar photo.

The old LNB was ruined by water/corrosion, and the actuator motor was rusty junk. However, the actuator screw jack is fine, and I use it to position the dish along with a simple measuring stick, marked for various sats. I chuck the drive coupler from the old positioner motor in a cordless drill and use it to move the dish.

It stays on G16 @ 99w most of the time for the networks.

Yours is definitely worth fixing, but I would suggest a new LNB.

I also should mention that mine is a later model than the one in the 10 foot Winegard dish owner's manual PDF available on this sight. Mine has a longer focal length/flatter parabola, and the panels simply bolt together on the edges. Yours might also be newer/different than the PDF manual.

Mine measures 22" deep at the center of the dish. The calculated focal length is 40.91 inches, giving a f/D ratio of .34. Quite a bit different than the older model in the PDF manual, which caused me some confusion, until I realized the manual was for a different 10 foot Winegard dish.

It looks somewhat better in the pictures than it does in real life. One of the mesh wedges came out and was flopping around. I had to try and slide it back in (to very limited success: my patience was wearing thin) I'm glad to hear there is some hope for mine since you're doing that well with yours.
I'm thinking that the description of what you had to do is probably what I'll end up having to do as well with the LNB/Actuator. Yeah, I'm going for the G16 networks, since losing all the Equity channels and now KTWO on G18.
I like your idea of using a cordless drill to position the dish, I have a feeling the motor in my actuator is toast too.

If I was really ambitious my cousin has two 10' Buds behind her house. One is a fiberglass model and the other appears to be a solid stainless steel model. Both look like they were built to survive a nuclear war.

 

[bubba108]

90% of FTA is experimenting and finding out that what seemed to be a good idea at the time just didn't work out. Having said that I'm going to say my favorite thing, " if-ing it was me here's what I'd do".
1. Tune in the dish to G-16 using the analog Shepard's Chapel on vertical.
2. Change the LNB to horizontal.
3. Swap out the analog box for your FTA digital and do a blind scan for the networks.
4. If they are there, peak the antenna. Even move the LNB closer or further in it's holder.
5. At the dish run the output of the KU dish to the diseqc switch. Then hook up the C-band to the switch also. This way there is only one feed in the 75' run.
6. Then hook up the Coolsat the way you had it. Set the C-band to the correct diseqc position and set all your KU satellites to the correct diseqc position.
7. Popcorn and your favorite beverage.

A. Don't worry about all that other stuff for now.
B. Be sure all boxes are powered down when hooking stuff up. I even unplug mine.
C. Carry a picture of Iceberg in your wallet.
D. I always run an extension cord out to my dish, a portable TV and the FTA box. Beats yelling,"How is it now?"
E. I sometimes have trouble getting my motorized dish to work when using switches.

 

[hwm]

"One of the mesh wedges came out and was flopping around. I had to try and slide it back in (to very limited success: my patience was wearing thin) I'm glad to hear there is some hope for mine since you're doing that well with yours."

I had to re-install several mesh panels that were knocked loose. The best way I found was to unbolt the offending panel section, turn it on its side, and gradually slide the mesh into place.

By having it on its side, gravity helps to keep the mesh fully seated in the lower channel, while you tease it into the upper channel. I also spread the aluminum channels the mesh fits into with a thick putty knife, then hammered them back tight after installation.

Re-installing the panels was by far the toughest part of my rebuild, and I was getting nowhere until I broke the dish down into the panel sections and turned the panels on their side so I could easily reach both sides of the mesh.

Hope this helps.