Help with my poor Bud

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Yep, the original goal was the networks, so until he scores an AZ or Q then he can just set back and enjoy winter. Chestnuts roasting and all that good stuff. :)

You nailed it right there!:D The weather around here has taken a nosedive in the last week, so I wanted to at least get the networks before the snow flies (we get pretty bad lake effect here...and sometimes early in the season).

Now that I'm getting them and I still have a fire lit under my butt I might have to tell Santa to leave an Azbox under my Winegard! :up
 
"I've got the bud and the Ku setup in two different places, so I can't use a single run . I have a 4x1 diseqc 2.0 switch that came with my Coolsat; any idea if they're any good? I would set all of my satellites to "On" for diseqc 1.1 in the setup menu right?"

Really not familiar with Coolsats, maybe someone who has one will jump in. Anyway congrats on completing your Island mission and getting the 94 (dang) SQ! :up
A autographed picture of Iceberg came with my Traxis 3500!
 
Only 2

I also should mention that mine is a later model than the one in the 10 foot Winegard dish owner's manual PDF available on this sight. Mine has a longer focal length/flatter parabola, and the panels simply bolt together on the edges. Yours might also be newer/different than the PDF manual.

Mine measures 22" deep at the center of the dish. The calculated focal length is 40.91 inches, giving a f/D ratio of .34. Quite a bit different than the older model in the PDF manual, which caused me some confusion, until I realized the manual was for a different 10 foot Winegard dish.

There were only 2 Winegard dishes. 1 was the mesh like you have that is flatter which .34 sounds about right. 2 was the perforated dish which I installed in many commercial locations and a few homes. It was a deep dish with an f/d of .29. It was also very tough could damn near park a truck on it and it still wouldn't hurt it. In fact I know of at least 3 of the commercial places where I install them that still have them working all the these many years later. It's even hard for 2 inch hail stones to do much damage to the perfs. But it is pretty hard to damage almost 1/8 inch thick stamped aluminum.
 
Any idea where I can the the latest factory software for it? The last time I checked the Coolsat website was down. Are they having some sort of company meltdown?

Dish Network filed suit against them and destroyed the company. I don't have a Coolsat, but I believe the latest factory files were posted here on the forum somewhere... Can't seem to find them at the moment. I believe they were posted in a recent thread...
 
Dish Network filed suit against them and destroyed the company.

Ouch, that's too bad. I had a feeling when I looked for their website a couple of days ago. That (plus the eyepatch crowd being thwarted) explains all the Coolsats I'm seeing on Ebay. I saw some guy selling (7) 5000's in one auction.

I don't have a Coolsat, but I believe the latest factory files were posted here on the forum somewhere... Can't seem to find them at the moment. I believe they were posted in a recent thread...

Thanks for checking :up, I'll have to look around a bit and see if I can come up with them. Your Visionsat's are almost identical to the CS7000 I believe? I'm pretty pleased with my receiver, my only gripes are the random freezing up (my fault for having not updated the software) and the onboard system for organization of .ts files on the external hard drive. I end up disconnecting the hard drive and plugging it into my pc so I can rename all the files and add new folders....much easier than trying to do it with the remote! :)
 
Really not familiar with Coolsats, maybe someone who has one will jump in. Anyway congrats on completing your Island mission and getting the 94 (dang) SQ! :up
A autographed picture of Iceberg came with my Traxis 3500!

Thanks bubba, I owe you a lot of thanks for lighting the fire under my butt. :up:)
If you hadn't mentioned the island networks and watching Fringe to me my Winegard might still be buried under a foot of decomposing leaves! :D
Also, keeping me on the lookout for Shepherd's Chapel proved invaluable. :up

I just hope my SQ holds up all winter and santa brings me my AZbox...oh yeah, and an autographed picture of Iceberg. :eek:k:
 
The 7000 factory (newest) is 1.16 so see if you have that

If not, here it is. Unzip it and copy to thumb drive
power off receiver with switch in back
insert thumb drive and power back on back

wait a little bit and it should pop op a screen with the software. Press red button and it loads. When box reboots then power off with switch, remove drive and flip switch back on
 

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"I have a 4x1 diseqc 2.0 switch that came with my Coolsat; any idea if they're any good? I would set all of my satellites to "On" for diseqc 1.1 in the setup menu right?"
Crocodile Locke
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Anybody know how to setup the diseqc switch on a Coolsat? Should he use the diseqc switch or a 22K switch with the motorized KU dish? I'm not using any switches myself, kept having trouble getting my motorized KU dish to work with them. Also I'm so borderline SQ on some things that any attenuation knocks some sats out.

Back in the day when I lived further out in the woods than I do now, I had eight dishes, two 4x1 diseqcs and a 22K switch. All the dishes were propped up on logs, rocks, prayer, dead pets etc. It looked like the hillbilly annex of NASA. It was quite a juggling act keeping everything going. Now I'm down to one motorized KU and a C band mini-minibud. My Traxis and Quali-TV boxes feed right into the TV. The Traxis is for the motorized KU dish and the Quali-TV is for the minibud (Island networks/GDMX on G-16). I switch between the boxes using the inputs on the TV.
 
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The 7000 factory (newest) is 1.16 so see if you have that

If not, here it is. Unzip it and copy to thumb drive
power off receiver with switch in back
insert thumb drive and power back on back

wait a little bit and it should pop op a screen with the software. Press red button and it loads. When box reboots then power off with switch, remove drive and flip switch back on

Thanks Iceberg :up, I had been looking online for that and I had seen files, but was a little leery of downloading/installing them since I wasn't sure if I would end up with hackware on my machine.

Now I've got (hopefully) one last problem to clear up. With any luck you (and everyone else here) aren't too bothered by my rapid-fire newbie questions. :rolleyes:

I've got the bud stationary on G16 and peaked fairly well, now I want to hookup both that and my Ku setup (SG2100 motor, Invacom QPH-031 lnb) to my Coolsat. I have the bud and the Ku located approx. 100 ft away from each other which I've realized creates a problem for putting a diseqc between the lnb and the motor on the Ku system (that is the way to do it right?).
I already ran all my cables inside to my Coolsat and then I realized things wouldn't be so easy.
So, can you think of any way I can work around this without running a cable from the bud all the way to the Ku setup to hook into a switch (assuming that would work)? :confused:
 
If the BUD cable and the KU both end at the Coolsat, hook up the diseqc switch there. Then run a cable from the switch to the Coolsat. Not sure of the menu setting for the Coolsat, never seen one before. Should work....
 
If the BUD cable and the KU both end at the Coolsat, hook up the diseqc switch there. Then run a cable from the switch to the Coolsat. Not sure of the menu setting for the Coolsat, never seen one before. Should work....

That's just what I did this morning and it seems to be working alright so far (it seems a little slow to respond and doesn't want to work sometimes). I have the dish menu set to disecq 1.0 "on" 2/4 for G16 (with the bud lnb) and everything else is set at disecq 1.0 "on" 1/4 (for the Ku lnb). The positioner menu is set to disecq 1.2 for the Ku setup and "none" for the bud lnb at G16.

Now I can watch Fringe (watched it last night) and still switch over to The History Channel and watch good ol' R. Lee Ermey on Lock N' Load! :eek:

Finally it's time for the final step: "popcorn and my favorite beverage" I think it's a good thing I've got things mostly resolved, 5 pages is enough for this topic!

Thanks again bubba (and everyone else) for all the help:up :D.
 
Now I can watch Fringe (watched it last night) and still switch over to The History Channel and watch good ol' R. Lee Emery on Lock N' Load!
Great, pretty much the same viewing here. Sometimes I leave out the popcorn. ;)

R. Lee Ermey:
"Let me see your Satellite face! :eek: You don't scare me, work on it!"
 
this has been a great thread, i'm doing the same thing got the dish up yesterday one question i had was how long of a run before i need a inline amp. my run is 230'. hopeing to order a DMX741 and a G box in the next few weeks.thanks for all the great info hope to get the networks tomorrow.:)
 
this has been a great thread, i'm doing the same thing got the dish up yesterday one question i had was how long of a run before i need a inline amp. my run is 230'. hopeing to order a DMX741 and a G box in the next few weeks.thanks for all the great info hope to get the networks tomorrow.:)

I wish I could help you with a proper answer to that. I'd start a new topic so one of the resident gurus can notice your question better. I'm sure they'd have a good answer. I'm running running approx. 100ft of RG6 with compression connectors that I put on myself and I'm not experiencing any problems, but 230ft makes me think I'd be wondering the same thing as you. The only thing I can say for sure, is to make sure you use the highest quality cables/fittings. :)
 
For a run over 200', you may want to use RG-11. More expensive and harder to terminate (fittings and tools are not as common and cost more), but it is capable of longer runs.
 
got everything going but i don't have the networks it's like crocodile locke. i did like iceburg said and manually added the transponder but have no "svc1-7 " any ideas? Thanks.:)
 
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