Put it in a vice,find a long bolt or rod that fits the hole and start smacking the bolt/rod with a hammer,it will loosen up.once it's free,clean it,lube it,good to go.
How do I get started
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First thing I would do, is try and remove the MOTOR from the tube. Then, use a channel-locks, or maybe a deep socket wrench, and see if you can turn the actuator screw at all that way. If you CAN'T do it either way, you might be able to run PB Blaster down the actuator screw, and get it to loosen up. Once you can get it loose, you probably will need to replace the grease in it. We can take that up later if it gets to that.
I already took the tube off the motor and knocked what looked like dirt out of it. I didn't see where I would stuck a socket on it. I tried vice scrips on the extension tube to try and turn it but it wouldn't budge. I sprayed pb blasted on the extension seem and on the bottom where the motor attaches before I left for work.
Ok, soak it good, and lean it up somewhere so it can run down the tube as far as possible.
Do you know anybody with a large enough well anchored vise? If so, clamp the remaining part of the pole in that. Then maybe you can work another long piece of pipe into the mount in a way that allows you to try "unscrewing" it from the mount pipe. If no vise access, drill a couple holes in the pipe piece, and use some lag bolts to bolt it to something made of wood and strong. Then try to unscrew it.
Von Weise model also supplied as Dayton gear motor 5A652
Is this any good? Don't see much info on it.
Is this any good? Don't see much info on it.
That's old school potentiometer model. That won't work with anything other than REALLY old c-band receivers. You need a REED SWITCH model. Check out my link above for a Venture actuator, or call Venture direct. Satellite Actuators | Venture Mfg. Co.
Maxi-ball model is the best, but acme-screw style will work fine. Do NOT buy the 18" Mini-T model, as that one is a rebadged Superjack, and likely won't hold up.
You want at least a 24" one, 24 or 36volt, reed switch type.
I always heard von weise was the best so I checked there site and that's the only one they show having. Is all there actuators the potentiometer or just that model? What's the differents with a maxi-ball and acme screw style or how do I tell the difference in case I find a used one.
Von Weise was considered a very good brand back in the day. I don't know if that's still true or not. Most devices are all commodities now anyway, and at a certain price range are usually about the same quality across the board. I would expect they also have reed switch types available.
That being said, I have a Venture Maxi-Ball actuator that's about 25 years old, quiet as a mouse, (you can stand next to it, and almost can't hear it as the dish moves) and can still move a dish with no issues at all. Maxi-Ball is much stronger than an Acme-screw, but is more overkill unless you have a heavy fiberglass dish, OR very high prevailing winds. You pay for that though in a higher cost. They are heavier and built a bit stronger than an Acme-screw type. If you had them side by side you can observe that and tell. IF you find a Venture actuator "in the wild" it's far more likely to be an Acme-screw type than a Maxi-Ball.
I put the LNBF on today found I have a few more hurtles to overcome. The button hook is seized up so the scalar ring is at 34 inchs from the dish and looks like I need to be 33 5/16 inchs away and the LNBF need to be set at 28 but the lines only go to 32. I'm going to half to take everything off to set it cause the buttonhook mount is blocking one of the tightening screws.
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That's a good brand, one of what I consider the "Big 3" (Saginaw, Venture & Von Wiess).
Hope it works for you.
Hope it works for you.
Take off the back cover on the motor, and show us what's in there with a bright pic or two. If it's an old potentiometer sensor model, you'll have to find a way to convert it to reed switch.
What's the problem with potentiometer? I've read where reed sensors are better than all the other sensors on the older ones. I'll take a picture when I get home from the gym.
The problem is that none of the newer positioner controllers can accept feedback from a potentiometer. They can only work with reed switch, OR an optical sensor.
So, you'd need to find a really old school analog c-band receiver that can control a pot sensor actuator, and manually move your dish every time. Your newer digital receiver wouldn't be able to move the dish automatically in a case such as this.
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