Latest Update at my Satellite Station

[Titanium]

You don't need to access the reed switch or open the housing to verify if the switch is working. At the motor, disconnect the wires running back to your station. Does the motor drive the actuator In and Out when a 12 Vdc battery (or 18Vdc tool battery) is connected to the motor leads (M1 and M2)? If so, the motor is working.

Now connect an ohm meter to the two sensor wires (S1 and S2) watch for the reed switch contacts to open and close when the battery is connected to the motor and the actuator is moving in or out.

Actuator length is measured extended to the maximum working length. Measure the first retracted stage tube and double to approximate the extended length.

 

[cyberham]

This is all I can see: Post #25

 

[Titanium]

The error is either from no open/close cycles of the reed switch, no motor movement, defective cabling or a defective controller. Test motor, reed switch, cable continuity and controller operation.

Motor Test:
Disconnect the heavier gauge M1 and M2 wires (White and Red) from the terminal block and apply 12 or 18Vdc from a battery to the Red and Black motor wires. Does the motor run and the actuator extend or retract? Reverse the leads to reverse the polarity. Does the motor run and does the actuator run the opposite direction?

Limit Switch Test:
If not, check the limit switch for continuity. If the limit switch plunger is extended (not pushed in by the adjustable travel limit wheel), it should be a closed circuit and pass motor power. When the limit switch plunger is depressed by the travel limit wheel, the circuit is opened and only allow travel in the opposite direction.

Reed Switch Test:
Disconnect the control cable's Orange and Green/Shield Drain wires from the terminal and place an ohm meter on the two white color wires from the reed switch. Run the motor actuator both directions using a 12 or 18Vdc battery as described above. Do you observe the reed switch open and close cycles as the motor runs? If the circuit remains open or closed, the reed switch or jumper wires are defective. If erratic cycles, the reed switch may have become magnetized because of years of inactivity parked on the magnet. Contact Von Wiese for a replacement reed switch or DYI a reed switch assembly from DigiKey or ???

Controller Test:
Attach voltage meter (Vdc 50 volt range) leads to the controller M1 and M2 terminals. Power ON the controller and tap East or West button. Do you observe a momentary Vdc reading before the error message appears? If so, likely the controller is outputting motor control voltage for that direction of travel. Remove and reapply power to clear he error message and repeat the test by pressing the opposite direction button. Do you observe momentary Vdc reading before the error message appears? If so, likely the controller is outputting motor control voltage for that direction of travel.

Testing the sensor count is more difficult, but might be accomplished by rapidly tapping wires attached to the controller S1 and S2 terminals while pressing the East or West motor button. I have quickly tapped a CW key to emulate the switch cycles.

 

[cyberham]

I have work to do...

 

[cyberham]

Based on the above procedures, and using a 12V/20A power supply since no battery is available, the motor seems dead. The actuator doesn't extend nor retract when the power supply is connected with either polarity. No movement at all.

As far as I can tell, the limit switches seem OK since they are closed circuit.

I see a brief glimpse of voltage output from the Vbox when I power it and attempt to move left or right before Err2 appears. I think this controller is good.

Considering this actuator sat outside in the rain & snow for 10 years behind my home, maybe this isn't so surprising. And I have no info about whether the actuator was even working when I disassembled the dish in 2012.

 

[arlo]

Apologies if you don't. Will you verify that the actuator shaft w/o the motor attached turns with moderate force in either direction?
Are Brian's tests being done with the motor disconnected from the actuator tube?
It's rather frustrating to see folks hammer a motor with voltage that has been in the weather for years and years without at the very least opening it up on a workbench and performing a teardown.
Von Weise has very well constructed gearboxes. Saginaw Gear, Venture, Superjack. You name it. I've never seen one out in the weather that could not use cracking open for a refurb. Do it, don't. Buy a new one. Your call.

 

[cyberham]

I assume the rubber boot must first be removed to disassemble the motor from the actuator. I don't know how to get that tight boot off.

I won't be buying a new actuator. It's this one or the Armstrong method. Using Armstrong method, I've found all the satellites from 139W to 87W and can receive almost all tps. The Armstrong method allows best peaking of azimuth, elevation, LNB tuning so it's a good way to go.

Added: Boot off. Disassembling...

 

[cyberham]

To close this thread, when I got a better look at the actuator and motor, and swept all the significant rust away that fell out of the motor once I got the boot off, I was more than happy to button it all up and put the assembly back on the dish to hold the dish in a fixed position ready for me to manually change the azimuth when needed. I will keep the Vbox in storage for another day and another crime.