Wow, so....I gotta ask, do I need one of the above mentioned motors? and if yes-where can I acquire for $60
Questions For First Time FTA Install
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I just remembered that the last STAB model HH90 that I saw did not have a centering hole in the tube. Mounting a GEOSATpro 90cm will be a challenge if there is not centering hole as the dish mast clamp requires a pass-through bolt.
I don't have a Stab HH90 on hand. Does anyone know if the current shipped model is shipping with the centering hole? If not, is the tube magnesium cast? Need to know before trying to drill!
I don't have a Stab HH90 on hand. Does anyone know if the current shipped model is shipping with the centering hole? If not, is the tube magnesium cast? Need to know before trying to drill!
Interesting about the centering hole is that its on my Stab 90HH yet the install manual and all the ads do not show the hole.
My HH90 should be arriving this week. Hopefully it has a centering hole on the tube. *crosses fingers*
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I just remembered that the last STAB model HH90 that I saw did not have a centering hole in the tube. Mounting a GEOSATpro 90cm will be a challenge if there is not centering hole as the dish mast clamp requires a pass-through bolt.
I don't have a Stab HH90 on hand. Does anyone know if the current shipped model is shipping with the centering hole? If not, is the tube magnesium cast? Need to know before trying to drill!
My Stab HH90 was purchased in March of this year, if my memory serves correctly. It had the hole in the tube, so the OP should be OK. The only thing is that you have amend the assembly procedure and put the tube into the dish mount first and then put the dish and tube onto the Stab HH90 motor. Nothing is heavy, so it is really easy to accomplish.
The last one I purchased, last fall has the hole.
Very good point bpalone. I'm sure he would have figured that out on his own, but it is nice to have a heads up. For sure yes, put the tube in the dish first and then lift the whole assembly up and slide it in.
Very good point bpalone. I'm sure he would have figured that out on his own, but it is nice to have a heads up. For sure yes, put the tube in the dish first and then lift the whole assembly up and slide it in.
Okay, so it's been quite a while since I've posted on here. I have all my equipment now (at least I hope so). I have a question regarding mounting the Geosatpro 36" dish on my roof and have attached a couple of photos. Will I be able to use the mount to attach both the rotor and the dish? And the other question is, will I be able to take out my old dish setup and put the new dish setup in its place? That way I can just use the existing RG6 cables.
I have a question regarding mounting the Geosatpro 36" dish on my roof and have attached a couple of photos. Will I be able to use the mount to attach both the rotor and the dish? And the other question is, will I be able to take out my old dish setup and put the new dish setup in its place? That way I can just use the existing RG6 cables.
The existing J-pole (post) may not tall enough to allow the motor mounting and the dish to clear the roof pitch (angle). This depends on what direction is South and the pitch of the roof. You probably will need to use the mast assembly that was provided with the dish. It is taller than a Dish Network post.
Also must install the 2 support legs and lag them into into a solid backing. Roof sheeting is not a good mounting surface. Either lag into the rafters or place 2x4/2x6 backing plates underneath the sheeting. This is critical for stability and reliable tracking.
The new mast assembly should be tall enough if the "J" is at the bottom, mounted in the footer plate. This post install configures the pole to reach vertical rather than horizontal. The Stab HH90 will drop the height 6 or 8", so watch the ends of the dish does not contact the roof.
The existing RG6 cabling should be able to be used if it is in good condition and no inline switches.
Is there no way to place the dish on the ground using a 2 3/8" galvanized fence post set in cement? You may wear out the shingles and your legs climbing the ladder getting this motorized system installed and serviced.
Also must install the 2 support legs and lag them into into a solid backing. Roof sheeting is not a good mounting surface. Either lag into the rafters or place 2x4/2x6 backing plates underneath the sheeting. This is critical for stability and reliable tracking.
The new mast assembly should be tall enough if the "J" is at the bottom, mounted in the footer plate. This post install configures the pole to reach vertical rather than horizontal. The Stab HH90 will drop the height 6 or 8", so watch the ends of the dish does not contact the roof.
The existing RG6 cabling should be able to be used if it is in good condition and no inline switches.
Is there no way to place the dish on the ground using a 2 3/8" galvanized fence post set in cement? You may wear out the shingles and your legs climbing the ladder getting this motorized system installed and serviced.
Agreed. Geosat Pro Micro HD is the best FTA receiver ever built for NorthAmerica. I have bought both, thhe Amiko mini HD is good also but the Geosat MicroHD has an excellent way to tune up the antenna with a single push of the yellow Signal button
Well, I think I've finally decided to do a ground installation. According to the SatelliteAR app on my phone, I am unable to do it in the backyard because the dish would face the house and no clear the roof (unless it is about 10 feet or more away) which is too far into the yard. So I will need to install it on the side or front of the house. Is there a tool you would recommend in order to make sure there is a clear line of sight to all of the FTA satellites?
Dishpointer.com is very helpful, and there are (pay and free) apps for smartphones and tablets that work well also.
I'm ready to go to Lowes and buy a post, cement, etc. More questions.
1. Is there a certain type/brand of cement mix that you recommend?
2. I noticed you recommend an 8 foot 2-3/8" galvanized fence post. Is there an advantage of having an 8 foot post as compared to say, a 5 or 6 foot one?
2. Is a post hole digger necessary? It seems like quite a bit of money to spend to just dig one hole.
3. Also, once I set the post in cement, what is the best way to ensure that the post gets set perfectly plumb? I have a magnetic angle locator, but I assume the post will move as the cement dries around it? Do I just keep checking every few hours, and how long does it usually take the cement to dry?
1. Is there a certain type/brand of cement mix that you recommend?
2. I noticed you recommend an 8 foot 2-3/8" galvanized fence post. Is there an advantage of having an 8 foot post as compared to say, a 5 or 6 foot one?
2. Is a post hole digger necessary? It seems like quite a bit of money to spend to just dig one hole.
3. Also, once I set the post in cement, what is the best way to ensure that the post gets set perfectly plumb? I have a magnetic angle locator, but I assume the post will move as the cement dries around it? Do I just keep checking every few hours, and how long does it usually take the cement to dry?
# 1 thing to do is either drill a hole 6" up from the bottom and install a long bolt and nut or deform the post so it will not spin in the set cement. Quite a few threads on this site discuss ground pole installs.
1. Some recommend the fence post cement mix, but I haven't noticed a difference.
2a. Depending on your location and the type of soil, you will need at least a few feet of post below the frost line. I usually dig at least 2.5 foot deep and dig/pour in a tear drop shape, slightly larger at the bottom.
If you are in the north, do not pour a top slab that will be moved via frost heave. In the south you may need a slab to stabilize and "float".
2b. Tools are sold to make jobs easier. Have dug plenty of holes with only a shovel and often needed a breaker bar.
3. You don't want to be moving the pole once the cement starts to harden. This will make the pole wobbly. If the cement mix is not sloppy, I usually set, plumb and level the pole then walk away. If you need extra assurance, wire or rope stays attached from the pole to stakes. No need to keep checking... Do it right once then let it cure. Let it set a day or longer to cure. I have rushed the process successfully and other times paid dearly for not being patient!
1. Some recommend the fence post cement mix, but I haven't noticed a difference.
2a. Depending on your location and the type of soil, you will need at least a few feet of post below the frost line. I usually dig at least 2.5 foot deep and dig/pour in a tear drop shape, slightly larger at the bottom.
If you are in the north, do not pour a top slab that will be moved via frost heave. In the south you may need a slab to stabilize and "float".
2b. Tools are sold to make jobs easier. Have dug plenty of holes with only a shovel and often needed a breaker bar.
3. You don't want to be moving the pole once the cement starts to harden. This will make the pole wobbly. If the cement mix is not sloppy, I usually set, plumb and level the pole then walk away. If you need extra assurance, wire or rope stays attached from the pole to stakes. No need to keep checking... Do it right once then let it cure. Let it set a day or longer to cure. I have rushed the process successfully and other times paid dearly for not being patient!
I looked at a few different threads on ground pole installs. One gentleman ended up digging a hole big enough for a 5 gallon bucket, then in the garage he put the mounting post in the 5 gallon bucket and slowly added the concrete, making sure the post stayed level and centered. After the concrete set he put the bucket in the hole and topped it off with more concrete, again making sure it was level and centered. Are there any advantages or disadvantages to doing it this way?
I don't understand any advantage to the bucket. Seems like more work! Also not enough pole under the ground. For a motorized 90cm I would use at least 2-3 80lb bags and go down 2.5 feet. Nothing like doing right one time. Nothing worse than trying to stabilize a leaning or twisting post!
Thanks for the info guys! No bucket it is! I noticed on Lowe's website that there are different types of fence post available, 17 gauge and 16 gauge. 16 is more expensive, I assume because it's thicker? Is there one you would recommend over the other? Also some are uncoated and others are colored (black, green, etc). Does that matter?
http://www.lowes.com/Search=2.375-i...e&Ntt=2.375-in+x+96-in+galvanized+fence+post#!
I noticed on Lowe's website that there are different types of fence post available, 17 gauge and 16 gauge. 16 is more expensive, I assume because it's thicker? Is there one you would recommend over the other? Also some are uncoated and others are colored (black, green, etc). Does that matter?http://www.lowes.com/Search=2.375-i...e&Ntt=2.375-in+x+96-in+galvanized+fence+post#!
I don't think color matters but you at least want it treated to prevent rust and thicker wall is stronger.
Be sure you bury it below the frost line in your area.
Be sure you bury it below the frost line in your area.
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