Skewing the Geosat Pro CK1 LNBF

[Anole]

Linuxman Mystery Theatre

Is this 20 questions, now? -

Before the last re-centering of the LNB, it looked like you were off the arc.
Not sure if you were off in both elevation and azimuth, but if moving the LNB higher (toward the top of the dish) helped, then elevation was certainly part of it.

Since you think your elevation and declination are perfect thanks to the new digital level, then either that's wrong, or there is something else at work.
And if you found that the LNB was off center, that's good news.

I'm a little concerned that you had more trouble on this dish after finding the hidden declination bolts (and molesting them).
I'd review those a bit and see if they are what ya think they are.
Mostly, because this didn't come up on the previous perforated Birdview.

Now, as there is no tool to guarantee accurate azimuth alignment, I'm guessing you need to loosen that cap bolt and give a tiny tweak.

Of course, I've been known to be wrong, but that's how we learn.
Thanks for the satellite laboratory experiment and class! - :up
Now let's get this thing locked down and move to the next lesson!


btw, some of your descriptions took four readings to follow.
That movement of the LNB, for instance.
A few pix would help. . . . or just go back and tweak the wording.

Oh, and what we really want, is a pix of you on that 3-foot stool & the solid at TS, with you adjusting the LNB.
You've got spare kids . . . have one of 'em snap that photo while your son is downstairs taking readings! -

 

[linuxman]

when you say Centering any you saying the feedhorn was crooked in the scaler

Hey George,

Yes, the feed-horn was sticking out from the scaler 1/16" further at the top of the feed-horn than the bottom.

 

[Anole]

I thought you had the hole in the scalar milled out so the CK1 would snug-fit it.
So, I'd have never imagined it could be cockeyed in the hole. -
And certainly not that much!

However, now that I think of it, the barrel of the CK1 is not straight-sided.
It is slightly larger at the open end than at the end near the LNB...
Geez, another thing to worry about if 'n when I get to follow in your footsteps! -

 

[linuxman]

I'm a little concerned that you had more trouble on this dish after finding the hidden declination bolts (and molesting them).
I'd review those a bit and see if they are what ya think they are.
Mostly, because this didn't come up on the previous perforated Birdview.

That was precisely the same thought I had, and will take care of that on the next warm, dry day whenever that will be.

Yes, I would like to get this locked down and move on to the next one. I am very close to having it perfect with both C and Ku signals in the awesome category.

Here is a picture to explain my awkward writing.



The illustration is a little exagerated, but explains the point.

Hey Anole,

I just read your latest post prior to posting this one.

Yes, I had it milled out to fit a Co-Rotor snugly if I ever want to put one on here, and that makes it a little bigger than the CK1. Not much but enough that you can get it off if you don't pay attention. You are also correct about the shape of the CK1.

 

[gpat]

This is the reason why I made an alignment jig that wont let the feedhorn reposition itself
when you tighten down the setscrews.
I think the Chaparral needs one or 2 more setscrews and a tighter fitting scalar ring throat.

 

[linuxman]

This is the reason why I made an alignment jig that wont let the feedhorn reposition itself
when you tighten down the setscrews.
I think the Chaparral needs one or 2 more setscrews and a tighter fitting scalar ring throat.

You are absolutely right Gpat.

The scalar on a Co-Rotor is way too loose and should have more than one set screw. I saw your thread about the jig you made, and it is a good one. If you try and put one of these CK1's into the scalar that is already there, it fits like socks on a rooster.

I just use the laser pointer, and it works good, but you have to pay attention when you tighten up the screws.

 

[starman345]

"it fits like socks on a rooster"

hehe, I'll be using that one

 

[truckracer]

My corotor is way too loose in the scalar ring. I took some strips of roof flashing and shimmed it a little. It still has only one set screw. As stated above, three would be ideal. Most of these lnbf's they sell for prime focus antennas are just way too flemsy.

You have to find that happy point of tightening not to distort the shape of the feed horn but make it tight enough not to move when all the metal parts heat up and cool down.

 

[linuxman]

I finally got myself some help for setting up dishes.

I bought some stuff from and ex-installer on Wednesday and went back last night and bought a Satlook Digital NIT satellite meter/spectrum analyzer.

I got it for a very reasonable price and was thrilled. The guy bought it for a particular install three or four years ago. Used it the one time, and has been in his closet since. The battery was fully discharged and is charging now and has been since last night. The manual says it can take up to 30 hours.

Now all I have to do is learn how to use it.

I am hoping this will take care of some of the guess-work I have done over the past year and a half for tuning dishes.

Also, no more having to take the receiver to the roof. YEAH!!!!

It has built-in diseqc control for 1.0, 1.1, 1.2 with positions for all satellites, so it will control the GBox.

Skew and cross-polarization will also be easily corrected.

But consequently, the WAF is in a tail-spin. I will have to sell off some of my prized satellite equipment to bring that back up.

Look for a spring house cleaning in the classified section in a day or two.

 

[Anole]

Wow, that sounds pretty exciting !
... Considering how well you've done so far with just your receivers.
You're gettin' dangerous , dude !

However, just remember, you'll still only be able to get it to 100%...
... no fair trying for 110% now!

 

[linuxman]

Wow, that sounds pretty exciting !
... Considering how well you've done so far with just your receivers.
You're gettin' dangerous , dude !

However, just remember, you'll still only be able to get it to 100%...
... no fair trying for 110% now!

Yes, I will now be classified as "dangerous".

I will know just enough to get myself in a lot of trouble.

Hey! What's wrong with 110%?

Just keep on remembering that our society is "Addicted To Mediocrity".

 

[truckracer]

I would probably donate a kidney to get one of those.
That is sweet. Those things are outrageous in price beat up used on fleabay.

 

[linuxman]

I would probably donate a kidney to get one of those.
That is sweet. Those things are outrageous in price beat up used on fleabay.

You are certainly right about the price on these things.

I would have never been able to afford one if I hadn't found this one.

Course all's not quiet around the house right now, but better days are coming.

 

[truckracer]

Uh oh!! I bet the wife was not happy-LOL

 

[linuxman]

Ok, this is my story and I am sticking to it!

I have tried faithfully for over three weeks to get the CK1 to marry outstanding Ku and C-Band signals using the Solid Birdview. After attempting every known configuration of F/D ratio, Focal Length, and polarity tuning, I have to agree with Mike Kohl that it is not possible to get both with outstanding signal quality.

I can get Ku signal so high it would make a Primestar owner weep. It would make a 6' off-set dish owner weep. I just can't get the C-Band to come up to that level. In fact if tuning for C-Band alone, the quality would only come in as what I would classify as good using the CK1.

So yesterday afternoon a couple of friends came over and we switched the Birdview reflectors. The Perfed reflector is now where the solid was, and the Solid is now where the Perfed was. The reason I did that is because I knew what kind of signals the Perfed can achieve having had the CK1 on it before.

After working this morning for just 3 or 4 hours, I now have outstanding C-Band signals and good Ku signals. I think I can get very good Ku before I am finished. If I were to have my preference, the C-Band is where I want the strongest signals. I can supplement Ku with stationary dishes, or even run my motorized Primestar using USALS if necessary, but I believe the Ku will be quite acceptable.

Remember the sole purpose in having this setup this way is to have the Twinhan 1020A and a possible future HD STB on this dish. None of those will control a servo motor for skew and polarity.

I think it was mentioned by someone else that if some manufacturer would build a GBox/VBox that would control the actuator and a servo motor, it would be a huge instant seller. Here that SatAV and Sadoun? Hint-Hint!!

As for the Solid dish, it now has my infamous ADL patent infringing Co-Rotor on it, being powered by the Pansat. I walked over after quitting on the Perfed for the day. Checked the declination, and put the elevation where it was supposed to be. I didn't tune or adjust. Hooked the Pansat back up at the TV, and had instant 90 SQ on 91W 3720 H and 75% SQ on 12060 V without doing anything. I am using the same exact F/D ratio and Focal Distance the CK1 had and this is the difference.

There are differences between the Perfed dish and Solid dish. They have different serial numbers, the OEM Focal Length is different, and their mounts are just a little different. For instance, the Solid is on the mount it came with, and it requires nothing to adjust the declination. It is dead on just as it sets. The Perfed dish is now on it's OEM mount and required only 3 washers at the bottom to set the declination. The solid required 5 to set the declination on that mount.

The quality of both dishes is still fantastic IMHO, but for a voltage controlled LNBF, the Perfed works better. Both are outstanding with a Co-Rotor.

My best chance of getting truly married outstanding Ku and C-Band signals is with a Bulls-eye type Dual C and Dual Ku Feed-Horn. So if any of you have one, or know of one, I am looking. Please keep me in mind.

 

[Anole]

raise the bar *

So, what you're saying is . . .
. . that you're giving up on the $40 LNB and switching to the $400 LNB?
Now THAT should go over well with the book keeper! -

Ya kinda make it hard for the rest of us to catch up with ya, too! -


* no, that wasn't raid the bar!

 

[linuxman]

So, what you're saying is . . .
. . that you're giving up on the $40 LNB and switching to the $400 LNB?
Now THAT should go over well with the book keeper! -

I am hoping to find a used one for a lot less money than that.

I already have LNBs to put on it.

Ya kinda make it hard for the rest of us to catch up with ya, too! -


* no, that wasn't raid the bar!

Me???

I don't have any idea what you mean!!

 

[truckracer]

I kept thinking my dish was not aligned properly trying to use the bsc-621. I didn't touch the alignment any further and just installed the corotor (not even at the right f/d) and all signals went through the roof!

Ku was pegging the meter on most sats. My bsc-621 would barely lock most ku signals when c band was tuned in.

I would get ku at just acceptable levels and c band was way low.

I drove myself nuts with that thing trying to be a perfectionist. My hbo max channels on G-1 were down in the 50's on the sidecar when ku was peaked. Just not acceptable on a 10' dish imo. My feed is not even centered on the dish now since it started raining the day I installed my corotor. I am still getting 70 quality on G-1 hbo/max 100-111 and 80's 112 and up.

I am totally happy with the corotor. I have learned to live with fumbling two remotes while doing blind scans to change the polarity.