USALS Motors: The Device from Hell

[cyberham]

So, as the relays are clicking: is the voltage reaching the motor?
If yes, the problem is in the motor.
If no, are the relays in fact switching (even though you hear them clicking)?
(I'm not sure if a stuck relay is still able to give a clicking sound?)

Once I opened the whole assembly, I was able to measure the voltage changing at the actual motor as the relay clicked. Difficult to get a reading since the relay would only remain in one condition for a short time.

 

[a33]

since the relay would only remain in one condition for a short time.

also when you use the manual buttons?

Does the motor have carbon brushes? they might be faulty.

But I don't know if this present non-moving has a relation to your initial (electronic?) problem...

Greetz,
A33

 

[Titanium]

Does the motor run with a 12vdc battery connected directly to the motor terminals? It is possible that the motor is parked on a limiter and a logic or mechanical error is not allowing it to reverse off of the limiter.

Also, the battery can be directly connected to the motor's "Receiver" f-fitting port to test the motor's manual buttons.

If you are able to drive the motor to the "0" reference, perform a motor reset. FYI... several HH DiSEqC motor models, the reset process will reset the "0" reference to the position of rotation where the function was performed.

 

[cyberham]

I'll get back to following up on these suggestions later. In the meantime, my Edision Mio+ Tuner A has stopped functioning. It appears it no longer has voltage output from Tuner A. I still need to measure. Maybe the playing I was doing with connecting it to the motor had an adverse effect on the receiver. Yet, I did the same actions with the GT Media receiver and it's still working fine. So into troubleshooting mode for the Mio+ now...

 

[primestar31]

In the meantime, my Edision Mio+ Tuner A has stopped functioning.

Check it from another slot, with a different loaded image

 

[cyberham]

Check it from another slot, with a different loaded image

Trying this. I even loaded a new old image without restoring anything. Scanning the fixed C-band dish so I don't need motor voltage. Not looking good...

 

[a33]

It appears it no longer has voltage output from Tuner A.

Did you have it completely off from power, since?
It might be the protection of a short, for which in some receivers a complete new start is needed.

 

[primestar31]

Did you have it completely off from power, since?
It might be the protection of a short, for which in some receivers a complete new start is needed.

Yes, I would recommend that he next disconnect ALL cables (including coax cables)), then do a power cable pull. Leave it powered off for at least 1 full minute before reconnecting it all and trying another scan.

 

[cyberham]

Ok, breathing easier now. It works! I did a lot of things to try to recover including leaving it off overnight in case maybe some safety feature had disconnected power output or it had overheated. In the end, I changed cables once again (never actually found any bad cable) and removed the AC adapter connector to power down. After powering up, Tuner A is now putting out the correct voltage. Breakfast time!

 

[arlo]

Good Job. You don't have to take suggestions but they might help.
You had the motor opened. A tiny drop of 3-in-one on the motor bushing and shaft end where it enters the motor can't hurt one bit.
Wiggle the shaft in and out while spinning it a bit and wipe off the gook that comes out. Then another toothpick dab of oil.
Get that friction down. Less friction equals less current draw. And a happy mio.

Lucked out on the 4k+. Cool. I have 3 here that were donated for possible fixes. A dead SOIC. Other one with a shorted HDMI port, running hot as heck with the shorts removed. Can use the webif though. The last one to owner tried running a dish twin lnbf. Cooked a tuner and then cooked the other. Still okay for a client mode unit I guess.

The 4k+ runs hot. I mean compared to a mio 4k. Hot. Any extra cooling won't hurt one a single bit. A small fan, 386 brushles, laptop pancake fan, and a wall wart to run it. Can't hurt one bit.
Glad it all worked out. I'd imagine there is thermal protection built in somewhere in the guts.

 

[cyberham]

Now that things have returned to normal, I can get back to the USALS motor. It's still on the workbench with guts exposed so I'll consider all tips and take another look at it.

 

[cyberham]

Confirmed this afternoon the motor runs on the workbench 'when it wants to run'. This proves there are no mechanical issues: motor itself turns, gears mesh well, stub turns smoothly, grease is keeping things smooth, no binding. I got it to move, I think, by assigning a longitude much further west than where I am. At one point it moved to the full east limit and stopped. Later, I got it to move back to about 196 degrees azimuth and stop. Perhaps its zero reference is messed up. But there's no clear way to reset the motor.

It's like a baby trying to communicate with me but I don't know its language. The LED flashes with red and green pulses. Too bad I don't know the code that it's sending. There are no intermittent wires or loose screws. But if a component on the board is breaking down I wouldn't be able to tell. I'll continue studying the patient.